Date: May 17, 2007
Time: 1:00 PM – 4:30 PM
Weather: Clear
Wind: Northwest: 7 to 12 knots
Tide: Ebb, 1.5 – 2.0 knots
Distance: 15 nautical miles
Launching at Woodland Beach was great. There were several friendly fishermen at the Beach. We chatted for a while about the fishing, the weather and the Delmarva Odyssey then I shoved off for Bowers Beach.
This leg of the journey began as a perfect day for rowing. The wind blew from the northwest at about 7 knots, a nice gentle wind. I was heading southeast toward Bowers Beach. The wind pushed me along with the out going tied. I stayed close to shore, although the waters of the Bay were fairly calm.
It isn’t necessary to go to far off shore in the Adirondack Guide Boat. It only draws four inches of water, so I can explore areas to which larger boats cannot access. Staying close to the shore is also safer. If the wind picks up or a sudden storm came in, I could quickly row to the safety of the shoreline. But perhaps the best reason for staying close to the shore is that I get close to and observe the shorebirds and other animals.
One of the best areas on the East Coast of the United States to view migratory shorebirds and the animals that live along the estuary in the marshes is Bombay Hook National Wildlife Refuge. The Refuge extends for several miles along the Delaware Bay south of Woodland Beach and north of Leipsic, Delaware. Viewing the Refuge from the water was something I had hoped to do for several years. I finally had the opportunity.
Beyond the ribbon of sand beach, the shoreline was lush with young green marsh grasses. Several species of birds flew above the grasses or scurried along the beaches eating. With the wind blowing gently from the northwest and the ebbing tide, the water around me seemed almost still. The sun was warm. The sky was clear. This was the perfect way to view the Refuge.
As I continued down the Bay, I checked my speed. Without pushing I was averaging 5.5 to 6 knots. This was a very good pace. The wind had obviously picked up. I estimated it was probably blowing at about 10 to 12 knots.
Several commercial crab boats went by as I passed the entrance to the Leipsic River. Sambo’s Tavern is located on the river in the town of Leipsic. Sambo’s is a favorite hang out for NASCAR drivers when they come to Dover Downs during the two NASCAR weekends in Delaware. Run by Elva Burrows, Sambo’s serves some of the best Blue Crabs in the area. But don’t wear your best clothes. At Sambo’s, the tables are covered with newspaper. Crabs piled on trays are placed in the center of the table. The patrons -- equipped with crab hammers and nutcrackers pull the crabs apart, digging into the sweet meat of the claws and back fin. The crab shells are left on the newspaper which the waitresses simply rolled up and throw out.
As I approached the beach at Kitts Hummock, I found the wind had come around and was blowing in from the east/southeast -- directly on the bow of the boat. The tide had also changed. I found my speed had slowed to 2.5 to 3 knots. I was tired. It was time to call it a day. Unfortunately, the beach at Kitts Hummock consists of a very thin band of sand along the shoreline and a large mud flat extending out into the Bay. Rowing the boat as close to shore as possible, I found that there was still about 100 yards of soft mud between the ribbon of sand beach and the water of the Bay. The only way to get to the beach was to climb out of the boat and drag it over the mud flat.
Stepping out of the boat, I realized this was going to be a long, uncomfortable walk to the beach. The boat glided easily across the top of the mud flat. But with each step, I sank up to my knees in the mud. As I slowly made my way across the mud flat, my sneakers were sucked off my feet and would have to be retrieved.
The middle of May is the height of the horseshoe crab breeding migration. The crabs move from deep water to the shore to lay eggs on the first full or new moon during May. The new moon had just occurred. There were horseshoe crabs everywhere I stepped.
By the time I reached the sand beach, my legs were covered in mud. I was met by a local resident who had been watching me from his second story window. He looked at me, smiled and said “Usually only the kids get out in the mud like that!” After I explained the Delmarva Odyssey, he provided me with a hose to wash off the mud and gave me a hand with the boat and equipment.
I was happy to have my support crew show up, pack up the boat, and head home. I was also grateful that they had not arrived in time to take pictures.