Date: July 23, 2007
Time: 8:00 AM
Weather: Bright Sun and Clear Sky
Wind: Southwest: Light
Tide: —
About 37 million years ago…
Unaware of the catastrophe that was about to occur, the wildlife on the peninsula had become increasingly restless as the brilliant new star grew in intensity. Their world was about to undergo a dramatic change. The star was in reality a large meteor hurtling toward the earth at a speed of 21 miles per second. Its glow was caused by friction as it burned its way through the atmosphere. It was about to strike the earth with a force of impact equal to the power of all of the nuclear arsenals that exist today.
The meteor, a 2 mile wide mass of rock and ice, landed in the ocean at the mouth of what would become the Chesapeake Bay. The epicenter of the impact was the town of Cape Charles, VA. As the meteor struck, it forced a huge column of water to erupt from the ancient sea. As the water fell back to earth it created a Tsunami, a giant wave, estimated at 1,000 to 4,000 feet tall which spread from the epicenter as far west as the Blue Ridge mountains. As the water speed away from the epicenter, it annihilated everything in its path.
The meteor left an impact crater 57 miles in diameter. Scientists discovered the impact site and crater by observing the deep rock formations below the Delmarva Peninsula as well as in Virginia and under the Chesapeake Bay. They noted that the layers of rock within the crater area were not like the regular conforming layers found throughout the rest of the Peninsula and region. An event of major proportion had disturbed these layers, mixing them into an unconsolidated jumble. Over time, with further core drilling and observations of the soils, sediments, and rocks, the scientists were able to piece together the data needed to properly document the meteor event.
Today…
David Burden is the owner of Southeast Expeditions, an eco-tourism company located in Cape Charles. For the last nine years, David has been taking visitors into the heart of the coastal salt marshes and along the shoreline of the southern Delmarva Peninsula. David’s kayak expeditions take the visitor into the back bays, inlets and along the open and empty beaches of these undisturbed ecosystems. With his staff of experienced guides, David presents a vivid description of the workings of the coastal ecosystems. Visitors learn about the fish and wildlife that inhabit the areas as well as a bit about the geologic and ancient history. A sense of peace is found as one slowly paddles through the back bays, salt marshes, or along the sand beaches of the southern Chesapeake Bay, observing the environment from the water.
I met David along with Dora Sullivan, the Mayor of Cape Charles, and Deborah Christie, Executive Director of the Northampton Chamber of Commerce, when I had stopped by the town earlier in the week. We talked about Cape Charles. How it had changed over the last several years. What it needed to do to continue its growth while protecting the ecology and lifestyle of the southern Peninsula.
The Cape Charles area is growing at a significant rate. A very lovely golf and country club, Bay Creek, is under development to the south of the town. Jim Ryan a long time friend had been with me during my first visit to Cape Charles. Jim, the owner of a landscaping business, was very impressed with the amount of effort that has been placed on the landscape and design of Bay Creek. The developers of Bay Creek have taken the time to develop two, eighteen hole, golf courses as well as a significant number of magnificent single family homes in a way that both enhances the area and blends into the natural environment. Native plants and appropriate flowers and shrubs have been used throughout.
The historic town of Cape Charles has also undergone a complete make over. Up scale shops and restaurants can be found along the main street. The beach and waterfront have pleasant gazebos and walkways that allow the visitor to enjoy the Chesapeake. Swimming is encouraged. The Bay water along the beach is very clean. The beach itself extends out into the Chesapeake. The shallow waters are ideal for young children. I found it interesting that on two separate visits to the beach I heard families speaking not only English but Spanish and French.
David had offered to join me in his kayak for this portion of the Delmarva Odyssey. With his knowledge of the area I quickly accepted. It would be good to have company.
We left a small secluded beach along the Chesapeake Bay near Plantation Creek. David was in a 17 foot long fiberglass kayak. He quickly cut through the shallow water as we moved out onto the Bay. We would row and paddle north, landing at the town beach in Cape Charles. The Mayor and the Head of the Chamber of Commerce were to meet us along with some reporters.
It was a beautiful morning. The wind was blowing gently from the southwest, pushing us along. The tide was almost dead low. The ribbon of shoreline below the low bluffs of sand that border the southern Chesapeake glistened in the morning sun.
Along the way David and I discussed the history of the area, the natural resources, commercial fishing operations and the changing economy. I enjoyed the opportunity to share the Delmarva Odyssey with a fellow traveler. We briefly stopped to examine a gill net. The net is set on pilings that extend out from the shoreline. At the end of the pilings, generally in deeper water, are a group of several pilings that contain a fish trap. At the changing of the tides, fish migrating up or down the coast are stopped by the net. As they swim toward the deeper water to pass around the net, they swim into the fish trap.
In the early morning, pelicans sit on top of each of the pilings surrounding the trap. They take turns diving into the water grabbing a fish, then flying back to their respective piling. On the southern Chesapeake Bay the fish traps are also known as “pelican feeding stations”.
It did not take long for us to cover the three miles to Cape Charles. The Mayor was waiting on the beach. With pictures and the interview completed, David and I decided to switch boats. I explained the theory of rowing to David. He explained how to paddle. Initially we both struggled. It felt very strange to be looking at where I was going, rather than where I had been. I also found that I wanted to move my legs, using them to extend my stroke. But, in a kayak this is just not possible.
We headed down the inlet at Cape Charles. At the head of the inlet, there is a small marina. David and I had agreed that I would switch over to a kayak for the next three sections of the Delmarva Odyssey. He would accompany me as we traveled up the coast of Virginia exploring the eastern shore of the Chesapeake Bay.