Journal Entry 10: Wachapreague
Date: July 10, 2007
Time: 6:00 AM
Weather: Hazy
Wind: Southeast 10 to 15 knots
Tide: Ebb
The casual visitor to Wachapreague, Virginia would not realize its rich history and importance as an early center of trade. The name Wachapreague was given to the town in 1884, but its recorded history goes back to the mid1600’s. In 1665, the Indian emperor Wachiwampe brought his people to settle on the high grounds that surround Wachapreague. The fertile soil of the area supported the agricultural needs of the tribe. The easy access to the inland bays, with their abundant supply of fish and shell fish as well as wildlife, provided food. Within a few years, however, English settlers displaced the Indians.
For centuries the high grounds around Wachapreague were used as a plantation. The natural channel and inlet provided the plantation with easy access to the Atlantic Ocean. Ships trading along the East Coast could take advantage of the channel and inlet, allowing the plantation to export its produce and import goods.
In 1872, the plantation and community that had grown up at Wachapreague underwent a significant change. A parcel of 39 acres along the water front was purchased by the Powel brothers to create a trading port. Local produce from the plantation as well as from the surrounding farm community found its way first to the port then on to the hungry markets of Philadelphia, Wilmington and New York. Commerce was brisk, the local economy began to grow. The port created the need for additional housing and commercial space. In 1882 Thomas F. Floyd bought an adjacent 25 acre parcel which he developed to meet the increased demand. By 1884 the area, which had become known as Powellton was large enough to require a post office. The name Powellton, however, already existed in another County. As a result, the town agreed to change its name to Wachapreague.
Wachapreague’s growth did not remain focused on commerce. In 1902, A. H. Gordon Mears built a hotel and began marketing the area to hunters, fisherman and sportsman from New York, Baltimore, Washington and Philadelphia. The Hotel Wachapreague became famous for its fine dining. The town became a destination for vacationing tourists and sportsmen.
Stores, fish houses, oyster houses, a bank, restaurants, and a service center supported the increased recreational business. But the Great Depression, storms, and a significant fire reduced the once prominent town to a small cross road. In 1978, the Hotel Wachapreague burned. It has never been replaced. Today Wachapreague is a tiny hamlet of less than 300 full time residence. It has never lost its appeal to the sportsmen. Wachapreague hosts the largest fleet of commercial sport fishing boats in Virginia.
I left Wachapreague at 6:30 AM from one of the free public launching docks. Hoping to catch the start of the ebb tide and avoid the winds that were sure to be building during the day, I rowed out of the sleepy harbor. I was passed by several sport fishing boats, heading out through Wachapreague Inlet into the Atlantic Ocean to fish for tuna and other game fish.
Just off Wachapreague Harbor the channel divides. The north branch heads out to the ocean the south branch meanders behind the Barrier Islands to the Cape Charles Canal. The sport fishermen headed north, I headed south.
The Barrier Islands include: Parramore Island, Hog Island, Cobbs Island, Wreck Island, Godwin Island, Myrtle Island and finally Smith Island. They extend along the southern part of the Virginia coast. Vacation homes can be seen on the larger islands along with some small trees and vegetation. But for the most part they are sand and dune.
The channel waterway is narrow. Lush, green, marsh grasses grow along the sides. The grasses form small islands. The water is clear. In the early morning with the sun beginning to rise, the air is still and quiet. Birds are abundant. Occasionally the stillness is broken as a small fishing boat slowly powers by. The fisherman work their crab pots or tend to the numerous fish traps found at the confluence of the small channels and bays that make up the area.
For the most part the water is very shallow. As I rounded one bend in the channel, I came upon an open area at the head of a small bay. Standing in the water tending the fish traps were four fishermen. Waste deep, they carefully removed fish, placing them into the 20 foot power boats that were moored next to the traps. The fishermen nodded their good mornings as I rowed past.
The meandering channel occasionally opens onto some large, but very shallow bays. Hog Island Bay, Outlet Bay and South Bay all extend between the Barrier Islands and the mainland. Rowing across these Bays, even at mid-tide, I touched the bottom several times with the blades of the oars, indicating that the water was less than a foot deep. The shallow water makes it very important for power boaters and larger vessels to pay attention to the channel markers.
The Adirondack Guide boat draws about 4 inches of water. A decent stroke requires that the oar blades be fully submerged. At their widest part the blades are only about 6 inches. I could navigate where most other boats could not. In several places I made good use of this ability and set out straight across the Bays, rather than following the meandering channels and markers. At high tide this was easy. At low tide, it was a bit more challenging. The navigation charts for the area identify many parts of the Bays as being “mud-flats”. While I did find some mud, most of the bottoms were hard sand.
Nearing my pull out destination I decided to take advantage of the gentle breeze and cool temperatures. I stretched out in the boat and relaxed in the sun. With the shallow water, I did not have to worry about capsize or being run into by a power boat. I was alone in the middle of the Bay. Shore birds flew over the boat calling to each other. Seagulls hunted for food. It was a relaxing moment behind the Barrier Islands in the quiet of the early morning.